ANKAN · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0Laitlum Canyons is a grassy ridge at about 1,750 m in East Khasi Hills, Meghalaya, 22 km (45 minutes) from Shillong, where the plateau drops into deep valleys. Go at sunrise or sunset between October and April. There is no entry ticket, only small parking and toilet fees. A long stairway leads down to Rasong village.
Laitlum means end of the hills in Khasi, and that is what you see: the grassy top of the Shillong plateau stopping suddenly at an edge, with forested valleys several hundred metres below. On a clear day you can follow ridges fading south, and pick out a village and its paths far down in the gorge.
The road from Shillong runs south-east through Smit and ends at a small parking area. From there it is a five-minute walk to the rim. There are no railings along most of the edge, only open grass, which is the reason it feels wild and the reason to watch children closely.
We like it most in the last hour before sunset between October and February, when the light comes in low across the valleys. In the monsoon you can drive up into thick fog and see nothing; on those days it is better to wait for a clearing than to leave immediately, because the cloud moves fast here.
What makes it worth the trip
The rim
An open grassy edge above deep valleys, with long views south on clear days.
Rasong stairway
A stone stairway of roughly 3,000 steps drops to Rasong village, used daily by villagers; a hard but rewarding walk.
Sunrise and sunset
Low light between October and February brings out the layered ridges best.
Cloud play
Even in fog, clouds often sweep through the gorge and clear for a few minutes at a time.
Things to do
- Watch sunset from the rim between October and February
- Walk part of the stairway towards Rasong village and back
- Do the full descent to Rasong with a local guide if you are fit and have a full day
- Photograph the layered ridges in morning or evening light
- Picnic on the grass away from the edge on a clear winter day
- Combine with Shillong Peak or Elephant Falls in a half-day loop from Shillong
Getting there
Laitlum is about 22 km from Police Bazar, roughly 45 minutes to an hour by car on the road through Smit. There is no regular public transport to the rim, so hire a taxi from Shillong and ask the driver to wait; agree the waiting time first, especially for a sunset visit. The last stretch is narrow but paved. From Guwahati, Laitlum is about 120 km and fits best as a half-day from a Shillong base rather than a stop on the way in.
Where to stay
There are no hotels at the viewpoint. Most visitors stay in Shillong, 45 minutes away, and drive out for sunrise or sunset. Police Bazar and Laitumkhrah have the most choice of hotels and food. A few homestays have opened in the villages on the Laitlum road and near Smit; they suit photographers who want to be on the rim at first light. For a descent to Rasong, ask a guide about basic village homestays below.
Local tips
- Stay well back from the edge; most of the rim has no fencing and the grass is slippery when wet
- Carry a warm layer; the ridge is windy and often colder than Shillong
- Start any walk down to Rasong by 9 am and allow twice as long for the climb back up
- Keep your driver on call for sunset; the road is dark afterwards
- Carry your rubbish back to the car; there are few bins on the ridge
- If fog is thick, wait 20 to 30 minutes before giving up
Rain and weather
Source: IMD 1991–2020 normals
October to April on clear mornings or at sunset; fog can hide the valleys completely in the monsoon.
